Cirillo Estate Mataro 2012
A new release from renowned Grenache maker Marco Cirillo, and a wine that is so new I can’t even tell you how much it is going to sell for (actually Marco mentioned that there’s but a hatful anyway).
The story here is simple – the Cirillo vineyard has a few random vines in the rows, with some seriously old vine Mataro as part of the mix. A few years back Marco replanted part of the vineyard to cuttings drawn from those old Mataro bush vines, with this 2012 effectively the first commercial release.
What a wine it is too – carrying a deep and unsweet, unadulterated spicy authenticity to it that feels more like savoury, old vine Bandol than Aussie Mataro. There is just a hint of eucalypt on the nose to bring you back to Australia, over a tarry palate of cloves and black fruit and an unwavering spiciness. It’s actually quite ripe, with nary a hint of Mataro reductiveness nor abject alcohol heat. I’m guessing largely old wood too, for there is little oak flavour to speak of, finishing quite energetic and leathery.
A brilliant, savoury ‘we should drink more Mataro’ red in a quite mid-weight mode, yet with an unwavering flavour intensity too. It’s more varietal than tannic, which suggests it’s probably not ‘icon wine’ priced, but also making for a probably more attractive drink.
Score: 18/20, 93/100
Would I buy it? Yes