Devils Lair Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 (Margaret River, WA)
14.5%, Screwcap, $50
Tasting young tannic Cabernet Sauvignon just isn’t fun. Sure, there are exceptions, and some vintages/styles are infinitely more approachable than others, but on the whole tasting young Cabernet is a pretty masochistic exercise.
Typically, this Devils Lair was hard work. I opened it in a small line of blind Cabernets and it stuck out for its lack of approachability, tasting more like a bucketload of ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’ ingredients chucked together and decreed as wine.
This is no elegant Margaret River Cabernet. Nor is it all that well balanced for the moment. But I reckon that once that bucketload of Cabernet components comes together (in about five years time) this is going to be an impressively bold and concentrated wine of unquestioned appeal.
Score: 17.5/20, 91/100+
Would I buy it? If I was feeling patient. In five years time I may look back and wish I had of said ‘yes’.