Soumah Al Fiori 2013 (Yarra Valley, Vic
13.5%, Screwcap, $24
Soumah is the unashamedly Italian-leaning wine operation of Brett and Greg Butcher, the wines produced from a well-sited vineyard established in 1998 on the edge of the Coldstream Hills.
What makes the brand interesting (besides the striking ‘duck egg’ blue label) is the level of detail and quirk evident in all facets of the wines.
Take this Al Fiori for instance, which is effectively a dry rosé with a twist. the blend utilising free-run Pinot Noir juice with the unusual addition of Savagnin, making for what is a happily odd pink wine.
Actually, odd it sounds but conventional it smells, the nose rather sweet and red fruited and generous, driven by the juiciness of young free-run Pinot juice (although the Soumah Pinot Noirs are actually quite savoury creatures) for sure. Yet the wine tastes dry, with the citrussy acid and chalkiness of cool clime Savagnin perking things up.
The net combination is chubby but dry, red fruited and savoury, yet also quite chubby to finish. It at first seems all over the place, but as a fresh, savoury rosé it actually kinda works.
Not for all, but no shortage of intrigue here.
Score: 16.8/20, 89/100
Would I buy it? Maybe drink a glass or two.
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