Top shelf Mornington Pinot from Montalto
This trio of wines has sadly been sitting at the back of the sample pile, somehow falling into the ‘neglected’ department. After tasting them I dutifully owe Simon Black and the Montalto team an apology – they deserve much more love than that.
Firstly, some context about the wines – following the trend of Mornington Peninsula makers like Stonier, Ten Minutes by Tractor, Yabby Lake and Main Ridge and the like (everyone really), this super-premium Montalto range is sourced from a range of different blocks located around the peninsula, with each block vinified separately to give a distinct terroir expression.
Happily, they are all quite different wines too, with their own distinct characters and flavours. Not having tasted the wines previously I can’t comment on whether such characters are consistent with each site, but no questioning the different personalities on offer.
Better still, the quality is markedly high, which just makes spotting nuances all that more enjoyable – I’d happily empty a few glasses of any of the three…
Montalto Merricks Block Pinot Noir 2012 (Mornington Peninsula, Vic)
13.1%, $65
The sappiest of the trio and perhaps the most feminine and aromatic, this site is multi-clonal and sits at 55m in altitude on a north-east facing slope. Perhaps the most classically regional wine of three and certainly the most delicate, with a real pure red fruitiness and refreshment. Perhaps lacks the drive of some of the other wines but still a beauty.
18/20, 93/100
18/20, 93/100
Montalto Tuerong Block Pinot Noir 2012 (Mornington Peninsula, Vic)
13.6%, $65
The earliest Pinot Noir block to ripen as its located at the warmer northern end of the peninsula. Planted exclusively to MV6 at 30m elevation.North facing slope.
Darker, redder and more soapy this looks a bit more raw and bold in the context of the other two. Still a Pinot built with a very light touch, though more meaty and masculine with bolder tannins. Handy, but maybe a little more aggressive and warm for real love. Certain to look good with more bottle age though. 17.5/20, 91/100+
Montalto Main Ridge Block Pinot Noir 2012 (Mornington Peninsula, Vic)
13.1% $65
Sourced from the oldest block (planted in 1990) at the higher, cooler part of the peninsula, this is closed, smouldering and structured. Easily the most complete wine of this trio with the most staying power – a real step up in concentration. Really impressive balance between red fruit and drying tannins. Lovely, classic Mornington Pinot Noir needing very little. Potential to score even higher in 12 months time. An utterly impressive Mornington Pinot. 18.5/20, 94/100
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