Cullen ‘Cullen Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2012 (Margaret River, WA)
12.5%, Screwcap, $50
The first release of a Cullen Vineyard Chardonnay, this again shows the awkwardness of the 2012 Margaret River white vintage, the fruit ripe, overt and blunt, with banana cream pie richness and a fatness that belies the quite moderate alcohol (’twas an early picking vintage after all). The palate follows with more banana cream pie (which many 2013 Vic/South Oz Chardonnnay show) fullness, jutting acidity and then oak and yeast sitting on top.
That yeasty, winemaking derived complexity adds interest, sure, but it can’t help what is ultimately a disjointed wine, all spirity fruit and no real generosity. The length is great (which propels the score up), but otherwise this is underwhelming stuff.
Tasted: January 2014
Score: 16.7/20, 89/100
Would I buy it? No.