Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (Marlborough, NZ
13.5%, Screwcap, $28
Still the cream of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc producers, with this wine yet another clever example in the line. One of Marlborough’s best producers, no doubt about it.
The key here is ripe fruit. That may seem like a silly thing to point out, but many ‘less fine’ (to go all Broadbent for a second) Marlborough Sauv Blancs are picked with greener fruit, the resultant wines carrying acidity that is a different shape to this wine – harder, pointier and genuinely less appetising after about the second glass.
Such criticism can be levelled at some Clare/Eden Riesling for that matter, with too many wines showing acidity that is more aggressive than it is refreshing. Residual sugar doesn’t hide such harshness either, although that is the tool that Marlborough vignerons use to cover the sharper angles.
The second pillar here is intensity, the nose showing a big punch more of the classic nettle/herbal notes with a little gunflint sulphides. The palate, too is tangy, long and biting, driven by excellent (ripe) acidity and even a little warmth to finish.
Full, but refreshing too, this is just spot on. Maybe a little sharp edged this vintage, but unquestionably top shelf wine, sourced from one of the best vineyards in Marlborough.