Vina Ventisquero is the Chilean venture of ex-Penfolds head winemaker John Duval, with this Syrah one of the headline wines.
John’s trademark oak rich stamp is all over the wine too, the style lifted up by sweet chocolate mudcake oak with a supporting cosset of licorice chocolate fruit. It’s just a little baked, but the intensity of fruit is impressive.
My biggest qualm is that oak – it’s everywhere, filling every nook and cranny with its chocolatey sweetness, leading to an ultra modern, ultra oaky red that could come from anywhere – Australia, the US, South Africa. Anywhere. That’s a shame for the vineyard looks promising (as does the region).
Decent wine but ultimately far too ‘made’ to love.
Tasted: January 2014
Score: 17/20, 90/100+
Would I buy it? No.