Clever imports (and more) from Terroir Selections
While it’s been brutally hard for our export focused winemakers, the record strength of our Aussie dollar has been useful for one thing – encouraging an ever expanding smorgasbord of imported goodies.
The following spread comes from Xavier Bizot and Lucy Croser’s Terroir Selections portfolio; the depths of which I can only dream about affording…
Sauvia Massi Fitti Trebbiano di Soave 2011 (Veneto, Italy)
100% Trebbiano grown in the Fittà hills.
Who said that Trebbiano can’t be sexy? A great battle here between the sour, chalky, phenolic tang of Trebbiano with some of the salty texture of Soave. The Trebb wins on entry, the region through the middle and more Treb to finish. It’s long, honey blossom edged and really quite impressive in the sheer concentration. Much to grasp. 18/20, 93/100
Chanson Chablis 2012 (Chablis, Burgundy, France)
All fermented in tank judging by the nose. Carries some of the ‘wet clay’ 2012 Chablis characters over a simple, acid driven palate that still retains some nice vanilla textural extras, if relies on fruit simplicity. More than reasonable length. A solid expression of Chablis fruit but true to style and variety. 16.5/20, 88/100
Terre á Terre Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (Wrattonbully, SA)
Hand-picked, barrel fermented Sauvignon Blanc from a close planted vineyard across the road from the Tapanappa Whalebone vineyard.
I’ve had this several times now and each month it gets better. Pine/passionfruit nose is super expressive, though the fruit is fighting with the oak at present, the palate flush with nectarine cream palate. Finishes much more tight than expected. An expressive and generous number this, but will need more time to integrate. Hold 17.7/20, 92/100+
Domaine Chanson Pere et Fils ‘Le Bourgogne’ Rouge 2012 (Burgundy, France)
The most new world Chanson Bourgogne yet. Redcurrant nose over a modern, super clean and open palate, presenting a deliciously fleshy and open expression of Pinot (though more Pinot than classic Burgundy). Light and bright palate is all about sweet fruit and less about structure, presenting an approachable and genuinely delightful expression, if not an especially serous one. Seriously impressive drinking Bourgogne nonetheless. 16.8/20, 89/100
Domaine Chanson Pere et Fils Monthélie Rouge 2012 (Monthelie, Burgundy, France)
Produced from a single vineyard sitting alongside premier cru sites.
Closed nose. Red and blackcurrant on a tightly bound palate of red/black fruit. Glacé fruit edges, supported by fine tannins. Closed but has promise. Rather impressive shape for the price and appellation, if just a little muddy to finish. 17/20, 90/100+
Tapanappa Foggy Hill Pinot 2012 (Fleurieu Peninsula, SA)
All it needs is time…
Once the surprisingly sweet toasty oak integrates here this is going to be superb. It’s easily the biggest boned Tapa Pinot yet, but that weight and volume enhances the appeal. The flesh and swagger underneath suggests plenty of greatness to come. 18/20, 93/100++
Ceretto Barbaresco 2011 (Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy)
Not my favourite vintage in Barbaresco (stop start with heat and rain) and this looks just a little confected. Still solidly authentic, the mid weight and pretty palate finished off with open, sticky tannins. A solid Barbaresco hit but it lacks the bite for stardom. In the same breath, however, every taste of this suggests pure class. Good, if in the same epic league as previous vintages. 17.5/20, 91/100
Domaine de la Grange des Pères Vin de Pays l’Herault Rouge 2011 (Languedoc, France)
40/40/20 Syrah, Mourvedre and Cabernet Sauvignon and some Counoise. Wild fermented, long macerations and up to 24 months in barrel.
Magnificent – and so clean for Grange Des Pères! A huge nose of purple fruit, garrique, fennel and plums that fills your nose and your brain with a richness of fruit and flavour. So plush and evocative! The palate is incredibly rich, with layer after layer of purple fruit, prune, steak, plum and a background clove and stalk intrusion. The length – extraordinary, the tannins a fine underline. This is delicious wine of absolute power, texture and richness. I want some of this… 19/20, 96/100
Domaine Mas Jullien Côteaux du Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac 2011 (Languedoc, France)
Syrah, Carignan and Mourvedre.
After the plush purity of the Grange des Pères this looks wild, fatty and a fraction hard, the green olive and gamey edges very tertiary and just a little too forward and stemmy. There’s character and flavour here but it just doesn’t stack up in this lineup. 16.5/20, 88/100