|Rockpool. Is the wine too fancy?|
Wine lists – do they need to be local? Or just great?
Few would argue that Australian wine could do with more coverage really, particularly given just how strong (or beleaguered, depending on your approach) Aussie wine is.
Eating out can be an experience, something special, something to be savoured. Why tarnish it with the usual and the mundane? Live a little
— Banjo Harris Plane (@banjohp) August 19, 2014
What was also noted on twitter is that, whilst Huon’s article swipes at the perceived imbalance of imports on top wine lists, it also fails to acknowledge an insidious issue that pervades Australian wine lists on the next level down – homogeneity.
Indeed venture beyond the land of hats and somms and you’ll discover that the bulk of Australian wine lists are crying out for some diversity (imports or otherwise), with many lists often tied up by large wine companies strangling out anything beyond the aforementioned Rosemount, Wolf Blass or Yalumba.
Conversely, Huon is also right on with another point, noting that you can commonly find reams of old Sauternes and Burgundy on lists, yet comparatively little great old Australian wines beyond verticals of Grange or a very limited pool of Aussie icons (Moss Wood, Hill of Grace et al).
Ultimately, the question to be asked is what we want in wine lists, and I’d argue that we want the very best wines we can get, Australian or not.
By the same token, what these articles are trying to suggest is that there’s much from Australia (and NZ) that is ‘the best that we can get’ and is overlooked simply because it is slightly more mainstream (like NZ Sauv Blanc).