Label to watch: Ministry of Clouds

There are some wine producers who just ‘get it’. Producers who, quite simply, make great wines that have great commerical appeal.Julian Forwood and Bernice Ong clearly get it.

Given their backgrounds, I’m not surprised that this McLaren Vale ‘power couple’ have it nailed. Julian was Sales Manager at the ever-clever Wirra Wirra for the best part of 9 years, and Bernice was the long time Sales and Manager at Woodstock (with a further decade before that selling wine for all manner of companies).

When they dropped into the Graham tasting facility a few weeks back, however, I didn’t know much at all about them (I didn’t do my homework, clearly).

What convinced me was not only the quality of their Ministry of Clouds wines, but the honesty of what they were presenting. For instance, they pulled one of the Shiraz as it didn’t look right. Next came this quote from Julian, which he was almost apologetic about: ‘we find the wines we love and then find where the fruit comes from. If we can’t find the fruit we go and ask the neighbours’.

They’re small details but important, particularly when it comes to virtual wineries (who can be less than honest about fruit sources and production).

You can see such honesty in the styles too – they’re aspirational wines, no doubt about it, yet the intensity and depth suggests minimal compromises.

Speaking of styles, like many virtual wineries Ministry of Clouds sells wine from multiple different regions. The focus is McLaren Vale, but as you can see below they source grapes from some well-known growers all over the countryside. Much of the wine is made at Tim Geddes winery in McLaren Vale (where Julian and Bernice swap labour for fermenter space) but some wine is processed elsewhere (such as the Chardonnay which is crushed and fermented at Bay of Fires).

The pair talk of a Ministry of Clouds cellar door and a vineyard purchase on the horizon, but there’s no hurry given the initial quality from what is a very young label.

Much promise here…

Ministry of Clouds Riesling 2014 (Clare Valley, SA) 12.3%

From the Penwortham Hills above the Clare Valley plus some Watervale fruit. Made at Crabtree.

Bright and quite piercing aromatics – there’s a Polish Hilll esque musk grapefruit nose that is piercing and intense, if deliciously floral. Rapacious acid even. Palate is long, angular and super dry, the acid cutting into your tongue but also backed by serious fruit power. The acid is just a fraction bracing, but no doubting the length or penetration. Top shelf quality. 18/20, 93/100

Ministry of Clouds Chardonnay 2013 (Tasmania) 12.9% $48

Tasmania. A combination of Panorama and Meadowbank fruit. Whole bunch pressed to barrel and fermented wild. Made at Bay of Fires and then transported back to the mainland in bladder.

Quite a delicate touch here. Lemon and oats with citrus and hay. It’s a little indistinct which is surprising considering the low alcohol but still a delicate and refreshing style. 17.5/20, 91/100

Ministry of Clouds Grenache 2013 (McLaren Vale, SA) 14.5% $38

From a 66yo single vineyard at McLaren Flat. Handpicked, whole berries and 4 day cold soak.

What an advertisement for Grenache! Jumps right out of the glass at you – all ripe red fruit with some carbonic tutti fruit. Light colours and an utterly juicy, red fruited Grenache style but punctuated by light sandy tannins and a little alcohol warmth. Mighty persistent red fruits to finish – that finish goes on and on, delivering real prettiness. Delicious style. 18.1/20, 93/100

Ministry of Clouds Mataro 2013 (McLaren Vale, SA) 14% $38

Cold soak, 11 months in old oak.
Looks like plenty of whole berries in here. Has a real lift not often seen in Mataro. Meaty core. I love the prettiness even though this isn’t classically varietal – a bit too opulent for that. Attractive wine though. 17.7/20, 92/100

Ministry of Clouds Single Vineyard Blewitt Springs Shiraz 2012 (McLaren Vale, SA) 14.5% $58

Sourced from the Patritti family’s renowned vineyard at Blewitt Springs. Mainly old oak.
Deep purple black colour. Has that classic prosciutto edge of Blewitt Springs over a palate of black fruit and with a darker fruit finish. Real grip and persistence, there’s a heroic firmness through the finish without oak. Like this. It feels withered and dark and wise. Delicious stuff. 18.5/20, 94/100

Wine

Label to watch: Ministry of Clouds