Willow Bridge Bookends Fume Geographe Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2013
Interesting to look at this just a few days after working through the 2013 Cullen whites at cellar door. For mine, this is a better wine than the ’13 Cullen Vineyard Sauv Semillon too.
What makes it better is that it feels more precise, as if winemaker Simon Burnell has had more eyes on the ferment, more hands on the sorting table. In fact, the only thing counting against this is that it needs another 12 months in bottle.
I ate a few Sauvignon Blanc grapes off the vine at Voyager last weekend and they really did smell like this, the peppery herbaceousness of Sauvignon Blanc writ large. There’s a background of oak and lees that slots in to complement the Sauv aromatics too, fleshing it out into something both creamy and spicy.
Gee I love that smell! Cape Mentelle’s Wallcliffe SBS is particularly good at nailing the ‘creamed fresh asparagus’ nose and I love its distinctiveness.
Underneath it doesn’t taste herbal, more just lemon/grapefruity, the acid a little prickly but with enough softening vanilla paste to give generosity, finishing very sharply defined (but not harsh).
All up this is smart wine. It’s just a little tart and those edges are indeed just a little angular, but much goodness to be had. Even better next year.
Details: 12.3%, Screwcap, $25
Source: Sample, tasted Feb ’15
Best drinking: 2016-2020
Score: 18.5/20, 94/100+
Would I buy it? Next year, on a list, that would be a yes. 3/4 of a bottle no sweat.
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