Out of Step Wine Co. Pyrenees Nebbiolo 2013
It seems that if you want to make Nebbiolo in Australia and you don’t grow it yourself (few do), then you either source fruit from the old Protero vineyard in the Adelaide Hills or the Malakoff vineyard in Victoria. There a few other plots around the place, but these are the two (highly respected) vineyards selling off grapes. What’s interesting then is how different makers use (or abuse) this fruit, given everyone is using the same stuff (albeit with different harvest dates).
Here we have an early picked version of Malakoff vineyard Nebbiolo, given less post ferment maceration and made in a deliberately more juicy style. It certainly looks pretty too, with a primary, cherry fruit nose complete with a dash of Pyrenees eucalypt. From there things lose form, with the palate more about acidity than varietal flavour, lacking the power and tannin drive of some other Nebs.
I like the intention here – to create a more crisp and less severe Neb. Yet I can’t get past the fact that this looks just a little lean and lacking in Nebness to be satisfying.
Details: 13.4%, Screwcap, $30
Tasted: March 2015, Sample
Best drinking: 2015-2019
Score: 16/20, 87/100
Would I buy it? No.
Buy online: Out of Step Wine Co. website
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