Les Chais du Vieux Bourg L’Etoile QV d’Etoiles 2011
A blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin, this comes from Ludwig Bindernagel – recently called one of the most exciting producers in the Jura. Made with some skin contact and oxidation, but a little sulphur added.
This instantly smells like Comte! My favourite cheese! Clear honey nut flavours, this seems very much a Chardonnay dominant style, with some cream of lees and bottle age filling out the gaps rather than sheer oxidation.
Sure, there’s an oxidative tang to the finish but this feels rather more substantial and less lumbered by volatility or extract compared to many ‘exciting’ Jura wines. Long, pure and even clean, it tastes every bit like the classic Jura Chardonnay, with a stony acidity and deftness that makes is really quite refreshing, despite any oxidation edges.
This just makes me want to go the Jura (and eat Comte). It’s just a little uneven, but drinkability and complexity is very high.
Details: 12.5%, Cork, $75
Tasted: April 2015 (tasting)
Best drinking: 2015-2020+
Score: 17.7/20, 92/100
Would I buy it? I’d drink a glass or two for sure.
Buy online: Oak Barrel
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2 Comments
Indeed, there are great chardonnay's in the Jura, for instance, Overnoy, Labet, Stephane Tissot, Domaine de la Pinte…, and in a more traditionnal way Rolet
True true. Love the Savagnin Chardonnay blends best though. Love Puffeney's Arbois Chardonnay