Nebbiolo Files: 3 more (challenging) Aussies
The search for good Aussie Nebbiolo continues, even though it felt a little masochistic with this trio. As ever, patience is required, with all of three looking better on day two.
Piedmont is the home of both Nebbiolo and the slow food movement after all…
Between Five Bells Neb Red 2013 13.2%
Sourced from the Malakoff vineyard in the Pyrenees. Light orange ruby, the nose smells of cherry, tar, caramel chews and red apple. Fragrant, sweet and sour palate is leafy, high acid and autumnal yet also caramelised with Muscat like dried fruit edges. Interesting, but a challenging wine with its bitterness and slight hard edge without corresponding fruit weight. 16/20, 87/100
Longview Adelaide Hills Nebbiolo 2012 14.5% $45
Dark red with a bronze edge. A more grand expression of Nebbiolo here reflecting a warmer site. Tarry and ferrous, the tannins a fraction raspy and the bittersweet, withmenthol and currants lifted up by some welcome oak thickness. A pretty convincing style all things considered, with a rusticity that suggests long maceration but curranty fruit too. I liked this more and more on day two, every mouthful a little fuller, even if it’s still an awkward young Neb. Promise. 17.5/20, 91/100+
Topper’s Mountain New England Nebbiolo 2011 12.8% $38
Even though it’s the oldest of the trio, the colour here is the darkest and most red, if with a little orange at the edge. A glacé cherry edge to the fruit here, even a little juicy. The palate though looks hard and extractive, a slightly mousey edge hinting at an unusual failure for this high flying pioneer. Really didn’t enjoy this and I question if it’s a representative bottle. 15/20, 80/100
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