St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
If you’ve ever enjoyed an early nineties St Hugo, or indeed a 90s John Riddoch you’ll be wanting to add some of this wine to your cellar.
It just sings Coonawarra Cabernet. Very dark red, it smells of pencil shavings, grilled capsicum, eucalypt, red earth, blackberry, blackcurrant, cocoa and expensive wooden furniture. Distinctive. The palate follows suit with a style completely shaped by tannin – everything just hangs off those sturdy, thick grained, muscular tannins. It’s a sturdy, ripe, oaky and firmly acidic wine, but gee it has long term swagger. That acid is sharp, the edges are very brutish, but this has that evenness and everlasting choc mint of the finest Coona cabs. It’s maybe a little too warm and ripe to be as sublime as the ’86 John Riddoch, but gee there is glory here.
For the cellar, a lock. Don’t drink it now though. Drink: 2020-2032. 18.5/20
Details: 14.5%, Screwcap, $54.99, Sample
Would I buy it? Yes. This will satisfy for decades to come.
Buy online: St Hugo website