Despite the initial steam of the Rose Revolution some years ago, it seems that the premium Australian rosè train still hasn’t quite arrived. Sure, there are plenty of wines out there, but the highlights remain illusive. Plenty of drinking wines, but convincing ‘serious’ wine is another story.
Does that matter though I wonder? Rosè for most Aussies is not an intellectual proposition, just a drink. Compare that to rosè in Provence or parts of the Languedoc, where rosè is THE drink with examples ranging right up to genuine premium wine.
Interested to know what sells better domestically though – ripe, juicy and generous or pale, savoury and serious? From what I’ve observed the evolution is towards the latter, yet the former style is still the unshakeable king. Interested to hear if others agree.
Luna Rosa Central Ranges Rosado 2015
A blend of Mourvèdre, Shiraz, Grenache from the NSW Central Ranges. Light salmon. There’s a lovely red juiciness to this, complemented by the residual, all making for a gentle, easy and light style that is really quite tutti-frutti to finish. Pleasant, if a bit sugar-sweet for me. Drink very cold. Drink: 2015-2016. 16/20, 87/100. 12.2%, $15.99. Would I buy it? No.
Pizzini King Valley Rosetta 2014
Sangiovese based. Light pale pink. A hint of rose water on the nose, the gentle but rather acidic palate is well formed and easy but doesn’t quite nail the acid/fruit balance. An easy drink but you just want more fruit. Drink: 2015-2016, 16.5/20, 88/100. 12%, $17.50CD. Would I buy it? A glass would do.
Gundog Estate Canberra Rosè 2015
Cabernet Sauvignon from the Gundog vineyard in Gundaroo. Bright orange pink, the nose flush with Cab pyrazine and a little pink sherbet, the palate driven by acidity, with more strawberry fruit and a dash of capsicum, the finish firmly acidic with just a little red fruit sweetness (just 4g/L RS which looks about right). Rather serious pink this, but just a tad hard – a little barrel time would do wonders to soften this. Drink: 2015-2016. 16.8/20, 89/100. 13%, $25. Would I buy it? Maybe two glasses (just).
Wirra Wirra Mrs Wigley McLaren Vale Rosè 2015
Consistent wine for it’s style. Bright, lolly pink colour with some depth – Grenache at work. Lightly sweet, generous and gentle palate, the pink grapefruit and strawberry flavours easy-going and fun, if just too sweet after a while. Does the job though and well made. Drink very cold. Drink: 2015-2016. 16.5/20, 88/100. 13.5%, $20. Would I buy it? Too sweet for me, but others will love it.
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5 Comments
My 2c. There are "serious" roses in the south of France but for most it is not an intellectual proposition / is just a drink [its just that they drink it all the time]. Re Australia, rose is the first wine to be increasingly bought by colour … pale is in fashion. If it is pale and sweet or pale and dry or off dry, most consumers don't care, they just want pale coloured roses [although pale usually equates to dry/dryish].
Do you think people in restaurants buy on colour though? I'd argue they just buy on maker or region or even just price. Pale or bright it matters little methinks, especially in an on prem. context (where the best rose is going to need to be sold).
True – my comments above re colour apply mainly to retail. As you point out, in on premise the customer doesn't see the colour until the glass/bottle arrives … but the colour can/does influence the wine buyer in on premise and they know [generally] that pale rose is a more popular choice than darker rose.
Certainly a move away in Aust rose from being made from Grenache + Shiraz to more savoury varieties [sangio, mataro etc] and less time on skins to avoid leaching too much colour.
Hey do you think Rose is actually on the up or is it all hot air? I can't find any stats on rose consumption outside the Rose Revolution info.
Well there you go, consumption is (anecdotally) on the up. Brose though? Ugh http://www.goodfood.com.au/good-food/ros233s-popularity-is-on-the-rise-20151019-gjx8rs.html?utm_content=bufferc8fbd&utm_medium=social&utm_source=twitter.com&utm_campaign=buffer