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Bremerton’s new alternative variety: The Ohledrev

April 21, 2016

‘What if we were to tell you this was a new fandangle variety called Ohledrev.’

That was on the sticker stuck on the box of this Bremerton Mollie & Merle Verdelho. What a wonderfully provocative statement. Verdelho badly needs a makeover, and instantly that statement forces you to think about just how kindly we treat new varieties, while the stalwarts (like Verdelho. Or Merlot) slip into the background.

I once wrote a treatise on the value of Verdelho seven years ago for the GT WINE New Writers Competition. My essay didn’t win (I came second, largely because Huon disagreed with the origins of the variety in Australia) but it’s worth revisiting that piece now if just to remind about Verdelho’s Australian history…

image

Indeed, Sir William Macarthur once described the grape (in 1844) as ‘the most valuable grape for wine we have hitherto proved in the colony’, and McLaren Vale pioneer Dr Alexander Kelly who called Verdelho the ‘best white wine grape’ in the land.

But despite all that, Verdelho has never really lifted above the label that Jancis gives it – as a ‘tradesmen-like variety’. Even its fortified importance is minimal given the equally waning popularity of fortified wines.

Going nowhere fast.

Of course, some winemakers still see the value in ‘ol Verdelho, and Bremerton is one of them. I can see why you’d appreciate the variety too – its tough, relatively disease resistant and gives a good yield. As a crop, its not bad at all. But as a drink, it is devoid of excitement.

Sadly, that’s the story with this Mollie & Merle Verdelho. It packs plenty of pear juice, mango and more pear flavour, the palate a veritable bucket of ‘Three fruits in juice’ and capped off with some late grip for texture. However, it’s still a workman-like wine, with flavour aplenty, but also rugged acidity and a very simple personality.

Bremerton Verdelho

I guess what must grate for winemakers like Bremerton – who can see the value of this rather juicy white wine – is the flood of boring white varietals that are taking Verdelho’s place on the table. Oceans of sweet (Verdelho can do sweet!) and underripe Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. The odd flavourless and utterly boring Arneis (even in Piedmont Arneis is not all that exciting). The flood of monotone Pinot Grigio. Even the modern love of boring Vermentino, which is typically no more than a Sardinian quaffing white.

All of this must grind when you’re pushing flavoursome Verdelho.

I’m glad that the Bremerton crew are pushing the Verdelho case along, and this has no shortage of juicy fruit for $17. But I’m still not sure that it’s going to change people’s minds about the variety.

(I use inklpay in lieu of a paywall. A small tip goes a long way to finally paying for hosting!)

Related Posts:

  • Tulloch Vineyard Selection Hunter Valley Verdelho 2015
  • Bremerton Special Release Langhorne Creek Vermentino 2015
  • Tower Estate Verdelho 2013
  • Tinja No Added Preservative White 2013

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2 Comments


Simon Colwell
April 21, 2016 at 12:21 PM
Reply

Andrew, I can’t help but wonder if you’ve touched on a wider issue regarding so-called ‘alternative’ varieties, such as boring Arneis, montone Pinot Grigio etc, specifically, do people drink these wines because they are actually good or just because they are new & different ? I sometimes wonder. I haven’t had a Verdelho in 20 years but I would choose it over that horrible muck pinot gris/grigio any day.



    Andrew Graham
    April 21, 2016 at 12:26 PM
    Reply

    We all get attracted to shiny new things, and no different with grape varieties.

    The challenge for winemakers is trying to work out which variety might actually have long term appeal, which is made even harder by the fact that it takes three years to get a crop from a new vine/cutting.

    Who’d want to be a grapegrower!

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  • About me – Andrew Graham


    At 18 I started working in a small suburban bottleshop, largely to buy cheap beer. It was my first year of university, doing a degree that I didn't really like, and a liquor shop seemed like fun. Needless to say I discovered wine, my uni degree morphed into something completely different and wine/beer took over my life.

    Almost twenty years later and I currently spend my days wearing many (wine) hats, mostly as a writer, presenter and marketer.

    While wearing my writer cap I write features for the likes of National Liquor News, Gourmet Traveller WINE and the RAS plus I'm a Lifestyle FOOD channel wine expert. Read more about me here or get in touch to book your next wine event with me here.

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