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New Torbreck: 2014 Philippou Grenache & 2015 Loon

June 18, 2016

Historically, much of the attention for Torbreck has been focused upon Shiraz. Laird, Runrig, Factor. That sort of thing. Big wines. Old vines. Serious prices.

Yet personally, I’ve often been more impressed by the ‘other’ wines in the Torbreck range, with the less overt, old vine Grenache and Mataro-based releases much more likely to tickle my fancies.

Pict and Steading, I’m looking at you.

It’s been a while since I’ve delved into the Torbreck range, and with these two new wines I was really interested to see whether the personality had changed in the post-Dave Powell era.

I’m quite sure it has…

image

Torbreck Philippou Barossa Valley Grenache 2014

This comes from the Philippou vineyard, which was planted on the edge of Rowland Flat circa 1893. Handpicked, destemmed and then fermented for 9 days with twice daily pumpovers, which is the norm for Barossa Grenache. It spent 22 months in one large new foudre, which is less usual (most Barossa wineries use small mainly old oak) and is sealed with cork.

Despite the alcohol this is very pale – a light ruby red. It smells concentrated too, with red meat, raspberry and a little glace fruit. Indeed there is no hiding the slightly dried fruit edge to this, with hints of treacle and coffee to suggest super-ripeness. Yet curiously this isn’t heavy and hot – its still quite juicy and doesn’t taste at all cooked or lifeless. Just very ripe. Indeed it’s got some impact and crunch too.

Strictly speaking, this isn’t my favourite style of Barossa Valley Grenache – and it would offend purists like Marco Cirillo – but this is cleverly handled and is utterly serious (and long). Best drinking: 2016-2028. 17.7/20, 92/100. 15.5%, $60. Would I buy it? Maybe not, purely as I just couldn’t drink much of this.

image

Torbreck The Loon Barossa Valley Shiraz Marsanne 2015

Marananga Shiraz co-fermented with Marsanne skins. Dark ruby coloured with a purple edge this is utterly primary stuff with dark red fruit in a riotous and very juicy form. Real fun here, the purple fruit unadorned by oak, initially gummy and plump in a ripe Hubba Bubba style, but the licorice and bark underneath serve to give this some complexity. Refreshing and vibrant little number with fruit appeal in droves, it’s not exactly deep or structured to live, but provides lots of open and very attractive berry flavours without resorting to residual sweetness. Smashable. Best drinking: 2016-2022. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14%, $31. Would I buy it? Sure would. Simple fun.

Buy direct from Torbreck here.

(I use inklpay in lieu of a paywall. A small tip goes a long way to finally paying for hosting!)

Related Posts:

  • Head Old Vine Barossa Grenache 2014
  • Musing on Grenache + blends feat Head Wines, Chateau Tanunda
  • Two smart new ’14 Barossa reds from Schwarz
  • Alex Head’s bargain 2014 Head Red duo

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  • About me – Andrew Graham


    At 18 I started working in a small suburban bottleshop, largely to buy cheap beer. It was my first year of university, doing a degree that I didn't really like, and a liquor shop seemed like fun. Needless to say I discovered wine, my uni degree morphed into something completely different and wine/beer took over my life.

    Almost twenty years later and I currently spend my days wearing many (wine) hats, mostly as a writer, presenter and marketer.

    While wearing my writer cap I write features for the likes of National Liquor News, Gourmet Traveller WINE and the RAS plus I'm a Lifestyle FOOD channel wine expert. Read more about me here or get in touch to book your next wine event with me here.

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