I’m in catchup mode here, as this tasting was part of Seminar 1 of the Working With Wine series, and Seminar 2 is happening this week. Excuse my tardiness.
Essentially this ‘Sangiovese in situ’ bracket was a warm up for a day of Tuscan reds. A sighting bracket, if you wish, with representative wines from all over the region. It was followed by a lineup of Chianti (which I’ll get to), the Tignanello vertical and then a group of Super Tuscans (which I’ll get to as well). Much Tuscan glory.
Albiera Antinori (Antinori family member and VP) and Paolo de Marchi (of Isole e Olena) where both on hand for this bracket and I’ve included some of their comments in Italics using initials AA and PM. Each of these wines was tasted in a slightly rushed masterclass style tasting back in April.
Bracket 1: Sangiovese in situ
PM:’Whatever you say about Sangiovese is true. It is difficult to control the tannins… But Nebbiolo tends to be more vigorous than Sangiovese.’
Cantina Viticoltori Senesi Aretini Chianti Riserva 2010
Bold and meaty, real bright red fruit. Medium weight, the oak a noticeable cherry edge to what is some quite pure red meat and red fruit. Genuine ripeness and flavour, if only mid weight. Seems quite developed. Classic styling though. It’s not ultra pure, but provides an awful lot of character – the tannins and the cherry fruit are pure Chianti. 17.5/20, 91/100
Campo di Sasso Insoglio del Cinghiale 2013
Includes international varieties along with Sangiovese. Merlot, Cab Franc, Syrah. Immediately more purple and purple red fruit. The nose is quite opulent and juicy too – plump and round. Very new world, it’s fleshy and plump and not all that serious. Fun and has flavour though. Not all that long though. 16.5/20, 88/100
Fattoria La Braccesca Nobile di Montepulciano 2012
AA: ‘The tannins of Montepulciano can be tough. They really are Tuscan.’
Quite classical. Meaty and quite rustic initially, but it feels very authentic. Love the rustic edge. Medium bodied, fine tannins, it’s mid tier but I love the depth and classic-ness here, complete with black fruits, bark and delicious refreshing tannins. Love the style here, even though it’s rustic. 17.8/20, 92/100+
Pian delle Vigne Rosso di Montalcino 2013
Vibrant Sangiovese. So much bright fruit, it’s ripe and forward but brimming with classic Sangio fruit. Pretty much all you want in a Rosso di Montalcino. All fruit, light classic tannins and a shortish finish but don’t discount the joy of this very juicy little wine. 16.8/20, 89/100
Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2011
Meaty. Really forward and even a bit pooey. Classic tannins, lots of flesh through the middle, but this is very advanced. Ripe vintage, ripe wine, with real plump through the middle. You could drink this now, and the tannins are still well integrated. Has an attraction, but this is not a long term Brunello and from a vintage I don’t love. 17.5/20, 91/100