I have somehow missed these two Yelland & Papps reds in amongst the moving.
Always amazing that even when you’re unpacked, there is still that one box that somehow gets missed…
Anyway, Yelland & Papps are one of those small Barossan producers that are making an impact with small volume wines made by hand. Not that most wines aren’t made with at least a little handiwork, but this is very much on the boutique scale. Susan & Michael are good people too.
Yelland & Papps Devote Old Vine Grenache 2014
Sourced from the Materne family vineyard on the northern edge of Greenock. Spent 19 days on skins, with that extended maceration a trend embraced by many Barossa Grenache producers in a bid for more everything. Matured in 30% new French oak for 20 months, there was a tiny 66 dozen produced. Or just a few barrels worth.
Red ruby coloured, this is all luscious raspberry concentrate, the oak a condensed milk swathe over the top. Underneath there is a full and surprisingly robust palate with red fruit filtering through the long finish.
I find the oak a tad dominant here, but it helps give weight and richness. Less new oak is better for Grenache (IMO) but this presents as a very substantial modern Grenache. 13.9%, $40. 17.5/20, 91/100.
Yelland & Papps Devote Greenock Shiraz 2014
Also sourced from the Materne Vineyard. Wild fermented, this spent 20 months in 24% new French and American oak. 262 dozen produced.
That obvious, toasted coffee oak plays a big part here too, but the purple fruit rises up to meet it, and the acid/fruit balance is very good. What I really like is the sense of moderation, with a finish lively and plump without excess ripeness. It’s about right.
Again, I find the oak a distraction (and highlighted by late oak tannins) but the fruit is very convincing, and with more bottle age the balance should work out nicely. Lots to like. 13.3%, $40. 17.7/20, 92/100.