Balgownie Estate Old Vine Shiraz 2013
The pointy end of the Balgownie Range and from a dry, warm vintage. This comes off the oldest 12 rows planted in 1969 and spends 24 months in oak.
Every bit the flasghip wine it is too. Impenetrably dark red, the oak plays a big part in the story here, with the coffeed flavours notable from nose to tail.
That barrel character matches nicely with the very thick flavours, the oak giving richness and contributing some tannin to what is already a very full flavoured red. But it’s also frustrating as the oak is just a bit too dominant, an overt flavour that may never integrate.
My only other gripe then is the alcohol, the warmth on the finish a distraction to what is every bit the dark, earthy, plum and fig style of serious proportions, toppling this over into ‘just a bit too much’ territory.
Easy to appreciate the concentration here though, and it will live forever, even if the balance isn’t quite right.
Best drinking: 2016-2030+. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14.9%, $125. Would I buy it? Not quite.
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