Soul Growers Cellar Dweller Cabernet Sauvigon 2014
I love that this was inspired by the 1953 Orlando Barossa Cabernet. Why set benchmarks that are foreign when greatness is so close? This Cab is likely to be a bolder iteration than those old Orlando reds, but the modern Barossan Cabernet appeal is there in drives (and it will improve for many years yet.
Dark deep red, this has a proper South Aussie dollop of eucalypt, nestled in amongst typically excellent savoury oak (Soul Growers know oak) and mulberry in there too. Palate is surprisingly minty and just a bit astringent, although the finish lingers on and on, suggesting that time will be very kind, the oak sweetness just helping to soften the blow.
It’s a big, powerful and chunky wine that is hardly a svelte and sophisticated beast, but packs in much black and deep, firmly etched Barossa flavour. Will it still be alive in 60 years time? Maybe. It will sure be looking good in a decade, regardless. Best drinking: 2020-2030+. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14.5%, $55. Would I buy it? A bottle in the cellar would be great thanks.