I opened this up for an event on Saturday and even I was surprised by how much I enjoyed it.
Sure, this latest iteration of Luke Lambert’s Yarra Valley Syrah (Shiraz. Let’s just all call Australian Syrah ‘Shiraz’) comes sealed with a cork. But that remains the only nod to old school styles, for this is as far from the ‘big and oaky Aussie Shiraz’ traditional stereotype as you could get.
Despite the obvious detail in the winemaking – handpicked, wild fermented in large old oak with 70% whole bunches and minimal fining or filtration – this also remains an awfully well-priced wine. No wonder it sells out fast.
From the start, this is gently spicy Shiraz with bright fruit and light tannins. That graceful, peppery, mid-weight style helps gives this a real delicacy, as if we’re talking Pinot rather than Shiraz. Peppercorns meet mulberry, the acid low, with just a little intrusion of firm edges courtesy of the whole bunches.
Lovely wine that entrances with its easy balance between serious tannins and sour fruit, with a generous beauty that is easy to appreciate (and so easy to drink). Not a profound wine, but a delicious one.
It’s a yes from me. Best drinking: 2017-2025. 18/20, 93/100. 13.5%, $40. Would I buy it? Would be nice to have a six pack of this floating around.
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