Witchmount Sunbury Cabernet Franc 2016
Now, for something completely different.
A handpicked, wild fermented, carbonic macerated, unfined and unfiltered Cabernet Franc from a region that lies in the shadow (and underneath the flight path) of Tullamarine airport.
Unusual.
It’s riotously pleasurable wine too, one that takes inspiration from Beaujolais, the nouveau wave of natural Loire Cab Franc and more to make for a maximo delicious light red.
What I like here is the sheer exuberance, that mulberry fruit left unburdened by oak (matured for just 6 months in old wood), and the hints of hedgerow and cinnamon that good Franc is all about embraced, rather than avoided. A lovely lick of licorice in there too, and tannins. Actual tannins.
Again, delicious wine. Varietal. Pleasurable, full flavoured, unadulterated, yet not callow. It’s not going to get massive scores, but drinkability is high, and the persistence and length points to something more than just a plaything.
I’m a big fan.
Best drinking: 2017-2020. 13%, $33. 17.7/20, 92/100. Would I buy it? Sure would.
2 Comments
Hi Andrew, such a great description of this grape variety. I was surprised some time ago when I received a batch of Tahbilk Cab Franc of how enjoyable it was to drink.
Had only seen it in a blend till then and did not realise that on it’s own it stood up so well. My vintage was 2015 and trying to keep the last two bottles a bit longer if possible.
To me this wine is a bit like other cool climate reds that are a refreshing change to have sometimes from the usual heavier styles that we enjoy regularly.
Thanks and best regards,
John
There is so much scope for more Cabernet Franc blends. Perceived as a tricky sell, however, which hasn’t helped the variety’s cause.