Sidewood Mappinga Adelaide Hills Fume Blanc 2015
I’ve got the whole range of Sidewood Mappinga releases on the bench at the moment, promising much. This Adelaide Hills producer has been scooping the pool of late, headlined by the bubbles and Shiraz.
This premium oaked Savvy kicks things off and it’s very serious. Handpicked fruit, whole bunch pressed and matured for 8 months in 30% new French oak. Serious. Only challenge is that there is a winemaking and fruit disconnect that makes the experience less than perfect. It smells of creamed asparagus and vanilla bean, the smoothness of the lees and oak a softening agent to what is otherwise an angular, herbal wine. That’s the challenge though – the closer you look, the more vegetative and raw the wine looks, the edges harder than you really want.
How it will taste in another 12 months remains the final question. But for now, it’s not quite enough love, despite the great length.
Best drinking: 2017-2019. 16.8/20, 89/100. 12.5%, $35. Would I buy it? Not quite.
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