It’s my birthday this week, and rather than just confine it to a single day I like to stretch out celebrations for a good 3 weeks – the #monthofAndrew.
That sounds indulgent, but really it’s just an excuse to delve into the cellar (which I don’t seem to do enough of, just drink samples) and eat at great restaurants. Skip the presents and let’s go out.
This Foradori was the choice at the (excellent) Bridge Room last week and apparently it was the only bottle in the restaurant. A heavily allocated product these days, in a nod to how #shithot Foradori has become.
Drinkable wine it is too. Nosiola is apparently a thick skinned indigenous Trento variety that has always been fermented on skins, with this white spending 8 months in amphora.
For all that time on skins it’s not orange, nor is it necessarily tannic. Indeed this is fresh, vital and pure – not wild or outrageous at all. There’s a subtle oxidative edge, but it’s a note in passing. Nosiola appears to give a musky terpene lift ala Gewurz or more likely Muscat. But here its contrasted by a neutrality too, the stonefruit nose bouncing off light, crisp flavours, plus a grip from skin contact.
I had a slight Malvasia hint here, but otherwise not strictly an easy wine to pin down – aromatic and fresh, crisp white, but languid and textural too (thanks to the skin contact). No matter, the end effect is vital, pure and real, the skin contact adding grip and texture. Perhaps a little too simple – I was waiting for an extra layer or too which didn’t arrive. But nice wine. Best drinking: Good now and would be interesting to watch over the next two or three years too. 17.7/20, 92/100. 11.5%. about $150 on a list. Would I buy it? Well worth another bottle, but probably not a multi buy.
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