Another benchmark release: Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon 2014

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon 2014

There is more Tyrrell’s Semillon, under various labels, in my cellar than any other white wine. Maybe that colours my views, and shout out if you see the Semillon bias, but I’d call this one of Australia’s finest white wines, if not the most distinctive.

Yet another stellar release from a red wine vintage (like 2005), what’s magical here is the contrasts – the green apple and rampant acidity, but also the first whispers of wax, toast and popcorn. Each time you have another sip the identity changes – all primary fruit and aching youth at first, then that subtle secondary richness next. It’s fuller through the middle than, say, the green-edged 2012, but that just makes it even more drinkable. It’s a great Vat 1. Like the ’11. Or the ’05, or even the ’99. But it’s not ready. Not yet. Greatness needs time.

Best drinking: Not now. It’s still too primary. Too sprightly. Wait until it’s eight, then drink it whenever you like for over next twenty years. I’d open in 2024. 18.7/20, 95/100. 11.5%, $65, Would I buy it? Gladly. Should have bought some when it was first released at cellar door five years ago when it was cheaper…