Sholto Syrah 2017
Wine’s most amazing trick is to take you back to a time and place. One sniff of this Shiraz and I’m back in my garage in 2010, crouching over a plastic fermenter, drinking in the unforgettable aromas of my first wine.
Thankfully, this Sholto Canberra Syrah turned out much better than my god-awful Canberra Shiraz Pinot. But what’s more interesting is that it shows the same distinct dandelion/rosemary/sausage/plum aroma signature.
Is it a sub-regional note? I’ve spotted that aroma irregularly in other Canberra reds from around Murrumbateman, but the Quarry Hill vineyard (where my wine came from) is closer to the Canberra border. Intrigue.
There’s plenty of interest in Jacob Carter’s Syrah too. Incorporating some Viognier in the mix, it was foot trod, spent plenty of time on skins with some carbonic maceration for good measure. Lots going on. Just medium bodied, it’s grippy, tannin-led and floral. You wouldn’t call it a generous wine – a bit savoury and pointy for that – but it feels satisfyingly fragrant and well-handled in a Rhone-inspired mode.
Ultimately this is a promising early release from the label – a wine of spice and fragrance. Best drinking: Now to eight years (likely more). 17.5/20, 91/100. 13.6%, $30. Would I buy it? Worth a glass or two.