The 2017 Giant Steps wines are magnificent. Pinot, Chardonnay, Gamay et al. All in ‘best ever’ territory. I haven’t liked the riper ‘18s as much, but hit dog this Giant Steps Tarraford Vineyard Chardonnay 2018 is good. Lots of ripe white peach, with less funk than I expected. Welcome to the arena ripe fruit. Genuine layers of flavour, not contrived or made, and authentic natural acidity. Riper, in a slightly unfashionable way, but a better drink than so many wines because of it. Unquestionably delicious Chardonnay. Best drinking: now to five years. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13%, $55ish. Would I buy it? In a flash.