We’re stepping straight back into 2003 with this Barossan red. Dark, heavy, and shaped by toasty oak, it tastes like an old Penfolds Shiraz – all plum fruit, oak tannins, and then tart acidity. It’s not a bad wine, and plenty will love the impact. But really, terroir, varietal character and vitality is MIA and makes this more dated than it should be.
Best drinking: it will look much better in five years time and mature for decades if you’re patient. 16/20, 87/100. 14.5%, $50. Would I buy it? No.