Classy Yarra Valley claret mode in an arch-traditional, mid-weight style. Pencil shavings, understated fruit, balanced acidity. It’s perhaps lacking the killer blow – and the fruit is light and leaning towards leaf rather than berries – the style fresh and so effortless. I’m rating this relatively lowly for now, but I’d love to see this again in a decade. Best drinking: Later. Honestly, come back in 5+. It will live for decades too. 17.5/20, 91/100+. 13%, $42. Would I buy it? Buy one and let’s open it in 2028.