Sometimes, the push to delicacy can go too far. This 2017 Brackenwood red teeters on the brink. It’s just a bit too crunchy. The cherry fruit is high toned, bony, pointy and pretty, oak lifting up the middle, acidity giving bite and freshness. I like the energy so much, but just a smidgen more ripe fruit would make this more than a fleeting drink. Best drinking: now. 16,8/20, 89/100. 13%, $30. Would I buy it? No.
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