I’m not sure why this Bellvale Pinot Grigio 2018 has been released this year, when it could have been even more vital in 2019. Regardless, like all of the Bellvale wines, this is such an impressive release. From the Ellis family’s vineyard in Gippsland, there’s this dry-grown, low-yielding concentration that puts this on a level above all but the very best Grigio in the country, with this lovely peach skin phenolic tang to what is a dry, Italianate but not ungenerous, understated Friulian style white. Speaking of Italian classics, there’s almost a saline expression here ala Sardinian Vermentino. Lovely. Just a little broad through the finish, the bottle ageing pushing onto the palate. Good Grigio here. Best drinking: now. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12%, $25. Bellvale website. Would I buy it? I’d share a bottle.