It’s a bit rough-edged, but this Hastwell & Lightfoot Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 has heart and power.
Smoked chocolate oak, some varietal/regional mint and a burly, true McLaren Vale Cabernet palate. The firm finish is marked by slightly jagged acidity and ragged tannins, but unquestioned flavour. Best drinking: now, in a big glass, sloshed around a bit. Otherwise later, and for ten years more. 17/20, 90/100. 14%, $25. Hastwell & Lightfoot website. Would I buy it? Maybe a glass.