Easily the most impressive of Nick Haselgrove’s wines to pass the desk recently, this The Old Faithful Cafe Block Shiraz 2017 comes off a block in McLaren Vale planted in the 50s that once had a cafe on its SW corner. Aussie literal naming strikes again!
More importantly, this is an example of McLaren Vale Shiraz at its richly textured, enveloping best. There’s this wave of molten dark fruit and toasty oak that threatens to be too voluminous but ends up as sumptuous and delicious, the mode grainy, oak-infused (it spends 33 months in barrel) and thick-cut at every turn. Given the alcohol, I was expecting warmth to finish, but it just ends up consumed by the rich fruit and oak.
Proudly lavish McLaren Vale Shiraz done well. Best drinking: now or for at least 15 years. 18.5/20, 94/100. 14.5%, $75. Old Faithful website. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle.
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