From the wide wide expanses of WA’s Great Southern comes a quartet of sub-regional Riesling expressions that I’m always glad to see.
These Harewood Riesling releases are more than just good drinks too; they’re worthy terroir pieces. Each one is fresh, lively, well-formed and expressive – vital young white wines of natural, unadorned appeal. I like them. I like the push to sub-regional Riesling too, especially in somewhere as varied as Great Southern.
But saying that, I wonder how they sell? I’m here in my insular premium wine bubble, where four different (yet very similar) Riesling releases are a good thing. I was even hoping there would be an Albany release, just for a full card of Great Southern sub-regions. But maybe it’s all just a bit complicated? Especially from different parts of what is basically one (remote) region?
Anyway, who cares. The wines are great and they’re madly well priced. Buy them all at cellar door or from their distributors Single Vineyard Sellers and give the quartet a taste, if for a terroir indulgence alone.
Harewood Estate Porongurup Riesling 2021
From one of the older blocks in Porongurup. Such definition in this proudly regional white. Celery, lime juice, maybe a twist of herbs before the palate gets bold and limey, with great mid-palate generosity before a taut finish. Mouthwatering stuff, if a smidgen singular and green edged. Great length too. Really top level stuff.
Best drinking: Nowish. I like this style young. 18.5/20, 94/100. 12%, $27.50 from cellar door. Would I buy it? Yes.
Harewood Estate Tunney Riesling 2021
A new addition to the range, sourced from a vineyard outside of Tunney, 40km NE of Frankland River. There’s a real just-formed brightness here. Crunchy, shy, lemongrass and grapefruit, the citrus dominant, but not quite as bracing and delineated as the Porongurup. A lovely fresh wine though with this pristine personality. $23? No I don’t understand the pricing, but another steal.
Best drinking: nowish. 18/20, 93/100. 12%, $23 at cellar door. Would I buy it? Also yes.
Harewood Estate Denmark Riesling 2021
The most expressive and open wine of the line, with cooked lime and broad brushed citrus, the palate generous and limey with a more forward edge. Passionfruit and jasmine too – it’s really so expressive. Good drinking, if a little border in context. Will probably be the most popular wine of the lot for many drinkers (but the Rieslingophiles will gravitate towards Porongurup etc).
Best drinking: now. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12%, $23 at cellar door. Would I buy it? Worth it, but only if the others are out.
Harewood Estate Mount Barker Riesling 2021
Sherbet and blossoms and lime juice and lemon. There’s a core of spice to this wine without the cooked lime fruit of the Denmark release. the acid feels softer in this wine, more open and with drifts of honeysuckle in amongst the oceans of lime. Pretty easy going sort of wine for Harewood and definitely attractive – I like that line of spice too. By context, the Denmark & Mt Barker feel more open and ready to go, the Tunney & Porongurup are tighter and leaner. Good drinks, all.
Best drinking: now. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12%, $23. Would I buy it? As above.
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