The best barrels, in the biggest bottle, with the heftiest pricetag. Oh yes, this Hewitson 1853 Barrel 2019 is the definition of a flagship red. But how does it taste?
TL;DR it’s gold medal stuff, although $450 is steep.
What’s interesting is how much of a step it is above the components. It’s an equal blend of the best barrel each of the Hewitson Old Garden Mourvedre 2019 & the Hewitson Monopole Shiraz 2019 picked after both had finished their 20 months in oak.
As you might have read last week, I struggled with the hype behind the Monopole, and the wine was solid but not $150 icon territory. The Old Garden, by comparison, was typically top shelf. And this red? It’s next level. A real, essence of the Barossa vibe. Plum jam, pan juices, something spicy and exotic at the edges, blackcurrant jelly, a whisper of spice and then it gets dark. So many shades to this. Black fruit, menthol, black olives, something dark and mysterious. Proper tannins to finish. A dark, complex and gruff but interesting Barossan red of real appeal. It’s not polished and oak rich and plush, but quite a mouthful of red.
Can I justify the price? No. Is it quality wine? Yes. Would I buy it? No. Will you buy it? Let me know in the comments below…
Best drinking: now or in two decades time. 18.7/20, 95/100. 14%, $450. Would I buy it? No, but I’ll drink some of your bottle.
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5 Comments
Hey Andrew, don’t know this wine, but sometimes a super-duper red is needed to celebrate a big event. I was 70 recently in the Barossa & bought the Elderton 2013 ’15 Shiraz plus 2012 & 2016 Yalumba The Caley C-S. They were fabulous & I liked the Caleys best. 12 of us dined at Chianti (Adelaide) and had the 3 above plus many Castagna La Chiaves (oh, what a wine). Next night was at Magill Estate where we drank all their 2012 Bin 389s and then moved on the 2009s – lots of them. And the food at both is extraordinary, really!!! I am truly blessed – 7 mates surprised me over there, plus the family. Memories forever. thanks for your good work.
I definitely agree that you need a super wine some times. But it should be genuinely super, not just with super aspirations.
It seems that you are being sarcastic about the wines I mentioned. Don’t know why you would make such comments and particularly to someone who has supported you. A clarification is needed.
Not being sarcastic Robin. Far from it – they are great wines. The super aspirations I’m talking about are this Hewitson, which is clearly aiming for super cuvee territory (but arguably doesn’t get there).
Thank you for straightening that out. I didn’t know your thoughts on the Hewitson and, without it being named in that sentence, my confusion was not unreasonable. Again, thank you for your good work and colourful reviews, as well as alerting us to many wines that we would otherwise be unaware of. Sante.