There has been a lot of both end candle burning at Australian Wine Review HQ in recent weeks, but always time to check in on the latest Burton McMahon releases.
This project sees Matt Burton (Gundog Estate) & Dylan McMahon (Seville Estate) make a pair of proper terroir pieces across Chardonnay & Pinot Noir. They’re single vineyard Upper Yarra wines treated the same way in the winery, yet with distinct personalities.
How amazing is wine, eh?
From a great, coolish, moderate Yarra vintage, these are lovely, open, expressive Pinot examples too, and lobbing at fair prices (on the Gundog website). A bit more flesh in these 2021s is entirely welcome too. I’m a fan. I’m a fan of anyone going to these lengths to make interesting wines, and I like the juice in the glass.
Scores are identical because the quality is on par – it’s a personal preference between the two.
Burton McMahon Syme on Yarra Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021
‘This wine is produced from the Syme on Yarra vineyard in the Upper Yarra Valley. Situated on the red volcanic soils of Seville, this East facing block produces perfumed yet structured Pinot Noir (MV6 clone)’
Riper this year – raspberry and sappy red fruit with an expansiveness. Welcoming, rather than bony, Yarra Pinot, maybe a little warm but curranty and open with drying tannins. This is the bigger of the pair and might be the most popular.
Best drinking: good now and for five years easy. 18/20, 93/100. 13.6%, $45. Would I buy it? Yeah, go on then.
Burton McMahon George’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021
‘The Georges Vineyard is situated in Seville East, approximately 180 meters in altitude, featuring grey soils on a north-facing slope. Clones 777 & 114/115. These cooler sub regions of the Yarra Valley are perfect for making lifted and delicate Pinot’
Much more vivacious. Lees ripeness, more Pinosity. A red plum expanse here, but it’s not ripe and dense though – more raspberries Pinot, less power, complete with some cinnamon and spice seasoning. My fave for the refinement, but it’s like picking between the greatness of choc chip or mint choc icecream.
Best drinking: good now and for five-plus years. 18/20, 93/100. 13.6%, $45. Would I buy it? Also yes.
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