Balgownie seems to mix old with new quite spectacularly – the reds are all old fashioned, yet utterly contemporary, with classic old vine fruit intensity and untempered regionality making for some truly cellar worthy wines. The Yarra wines are still a way off the Bendigo reds, but after a recent injection of resources, the framework is there.

Medium red in colour, tending a lighter maroon at the edges. The nose is Mint Slice, eucalypt and pine cones, over some tight red fruit. The nose is quite withdrawn, but power rests below: The palate is suitably structured, with dominant tannins & quite firm flavours in that classically fine, wine-for-grownups style. Its minty, tannic, firm and don’t go looking for no luscious red berry sweetness here – that’s kids stuff – The fruit instead is savoury, full and impressively powerful. Finishing with some heat on the finish and a hint of greenness, this is a distinctly regional, no bullshit style of red that will cellar damn well thank you very much and represents top value for money. Just don’t come looking for softness. 17.5+