Grosset Watervale Riesling 2004 (Clare valley, SA)
Screwcap, $28 (at release)

2004 Clare valley whites only get an 8/10 on the James Halliday vintage chart and its probably pretty fair to say that this an 8/10 Grosset Watervale. The context though, is that an 8/10 Grosset Watervale Riesling is more likely a 9/10 wine for most other producers, & it is this quality which shines through – the clarity of flavours are world class.

Yellow straw in colour its very bright and vibrant in colour. The nose is characteristically limey, overlaid with toasty, honeycomb like development. No turpine on this nose which leans more towards golden toastiness, complementing the lime perfectly. The palate is quite soft on entry & very long, with layers of flavour that switch between lime/lemon fruit, then rich development, before finishing with brisk acidity. The fruit comes in on a concentrated wave of sweet lime juice, that finishes with a lingering aftertaste of citrussy grape skins.

Its a lovely, softer styled Riesling, with attractive layers of fruit & an impressive dry finish. Developing well, though I can foresee it largely just softening more from here. The only thing lacking is the sheer intensity that marks the finest vintages of Mr Grosset’s Rieslings. 18.2