Tesch Lohrer Berg Spatlese Trocken Riesling 2007 (Nahe, Germany)
Screwcap, $30
LOHRER BERG: FERTILE CLAY SOILS SHOT THROUGH WITH RIVER GRAVEL GIVE FRUITY RIESLING WITH GENTLE CHARACTERAnother single vineyard Riesling that is interesting and distinctively terroir driven – you can taste the gravel! For $30 these Tesch Rieslings are a real bargain.
Compared to its sibling, the similarly single vineyard Karthauser, this is much more traditional in every sense of the word – the nose opens with a big hit of sulphur – its not reduced, but sulphur fairly swamps the nose. This disappears after a couple of hours in the glass, leaving a green and yellow apple nose with grapefruit and wet stones.
The palate is quite sweet and traditionally Spatlese in style, with gentle yellow apple sweetness in a quite ripe frameset, backed by sprightly acidity.
After the explosive expressiveness that is the Karthauser, this seems just a tad backward and simple, with its softness and sweetness making for a very easy drink – plump and juicy and good, just not quite brilliant. 16.9





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