Harviestoun Old Engine Oil (Ava, Scotland) 5.5%
3 for $11 at my local Vintage Cellars
'Viscous, chocolatey, bitter'
The above line sits at the bottom of the Harviestoun label and, unlike lots of marketing guff, it is such a succinct description of this delicious dark beer. Whats more, at this chilly (for Sydney) time of year, the lovely, rich and hearty flavours of the 'Old Engine Oil' seem to take on an extra air of significance - I just want to come and drink this. It's like being a kid again, where I have to finish off my veges to get dessert. This beer is my dessert.
I think part of the appeal here is absolutely personal, and is really centred upon the rich, almost dairy like texture. The connection for me is that I am a massive fan of dairy. Milk, cream, cheese, yoghurt, even humble butter - all of it tastes special to me. Perhaps in a past life I was a dairy farmer, or a frustrated lactose intolerant chef. Whatever, I love dairy, and my body seems to thrive on the stuff. For extra significane, desides dairy, I also love dark chocolate. The good 70% Cocoa kind, of the style that balances both bitterness and sweetness perfectly.
Two peices of Lindt Excellence 70% Dark, accompanied by a glass of unhomogenised Organic Cows milk, is literally my daily nightcap & a favourite part of my routine.
The Harviestoun then is, flavour wise, all to familiar and right. Rich, heavily roasted malt, in a style that many breweries do well (Southwark & Coopers Extra Stout in Australia particularly so) but few do with such balance. This beer avoids the burnt coffee like flavours of some Stouts, instead moving towards a more caramelised, leaner palate that has you wanting to drink more than just a glass. That aforementioned creaminess comes through on the palate, giving generosity and viscosity, almost as if vanilla beans where also thrown into this brew. But to counter the cream, along comes the bitter chocolate, straightening up the broad creaminess and keep it all well toned and refreshing.
To tell you the truth, I think many people would just accept this as a lovely, rich, dark weather beer, but to me, it tastes like a lovingly familiar, almost custom built, amalgamation of some of my favourite flavours, packaged up in very accessible way.
2009/10 WCA Wine Journalism 'Young Gun; Wine Judge; Gourmet Traveller WINE and Breathe Hunter Valley magazine contributor; LattéLife & The Retiree columnist; National Liquor News tasting panellist and Chablis lover who fell into the liquor industry chiefly to buy cheap beer.
Jefford on Monday: Hill Sages
1 hour ago
Looks like I've similar views on stout Andrew, i.e., the lactic comments.
ReplyDeleteAs a Sydney-sider, check out a seasonal stout at the Lord Nelson Brewery. I'm not a massive fan of their beers, but this one really interested me. I was in Sydney a couple of weeks ago. I presume that it's still there, but only on tap.
On the lactic bit, it's often foumd in a variety of Belgian ales, but not always the dark ones. An interesting quirk.
By the way, beer reviewed out of twenty (using stars). A bit different to wine (2 stars means that it's just passable)
X. Lord Nelson Anileation Stout (AUS)
Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel, The Rocks, Sydney, NSW
5.2%, on tap
Despite the half-smart name recalling Nelson’s victory on the Nile, this seasonal brew (why can’t it be offered all the time?) is quite an achievement in the context of Australian stout. It’s a dark chocolatey colour, is poured with a compact creamy light cappuccino coloure head showing a cocoa powder aroma. Very smooth and chocolate-like on the palate, with an almost lactic mouthfeel in true British style. There’s no alcohol heat despite the slightly higher than usual ABV, at least for a sessional-style stout. The toasty, black coffee finish is drying but not even remotely dissecating. Vey attractive and remarkably well put together, this is perhaps the Lord Nelson’s most stylish offering, and not nearly as damaging as the name would suggest.
***¾
MichaelC