The joy of the unpolished: Galafrey Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Galafrey Reserve Cabernet
Nice to see a currently available 04 too

Galafrey Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (Mt Barker, WA)
13.5%, Screwcap, $35
Source: Sample
www.galafreywines.com.au

I've got something of a soft spot for Great Southern Cabernet. In fact, I'd have to say that I generally prefer the Cabs to the Shiraz from said part of the world, though that might just be me showing my Cabernet bent. I blame Howard Park for helping foster this Gt Southern Cabernet love *shakes fist*.

Anyway, there is much to like with this Mt Barker Cabernet. It smells and tastes like it has been produced from somewhere, by actual human beings. It's slightly stinky, hearty and happily rough around the edges. It has a density on the palate too, that low yielding, dry grown (or sparingly watered) concentration that indicates grapes grown for flavour and not yield. Lots to like.

What I particularly like is the tomato leaf vitality of this wine. It's a varietal leafiness, but also with a meaty, sort of fatty meat secondary character. The palate is ferrous and tannic, with firmness and length aplenty. A furry, undergrowth character in there too.

Unpolished, genuine and interesting, this is 'winey' wine in the proper fashion. 18/93