Galafrey ‘The Jovial’ Cabernet blend 2004
13.5%, Screwcap, $35
I’ve talked before about how much I enjoy the wonderfully genuine, unpolished style of these Galafrey reds and this is another great example. An example that not only tastes hand-made but also came hand-labelled too (check out the vintage blue pen update below. Love it). It may seem trivial (and indeed some writers may be unimpressed) but such a touch helped remind yet again that wine is made by people.
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc picked off the un-irrigated 30+ year old Galafrey vineyard from vines that averaged a miniscule yield of 2 tonnes per hectare (less than 1 tonne per acre). You can see that absolute concentration in the wine too, from the deep, still youthful, ruby red colour, through the cedary, spicy, minty, blackberry and bark nose to the firm, furry, slightly green tannins and sprightly acidity of the palate. From start to finish it tastes uncompromised, unpolished and wonderfully hearty in a proper fashion, a mid weight, firm and even slightly old school red of some depth and power but with acidity to match.
Rusticity, but with vibrant fruit at the core? Yes please. 18/93