Katnook Estate Shiraz 2010
13.5%, Screwcap, $40
Very much an old fashioned oak driven Australian red this, built in that thick grained, slightly raw, chocolatey American oak driven style that is a flashback to the lavishly oaked wines of the late 90s and early 00s.
Whilst many producers have walked away from such a wine style, there is an unquestionable attractiveness of the better made examples. Wines with heart no doubt.
What's interesting here is that the oak is still noticeable, even though the wine was matured in seasoned barrels. Luckily the fruit underneath is lively, giving a kit-kat and plum fruit character that is well up to the task of competing with the chewy tannins.
I like that richness and the vibrancy of fruit is good, the only further question here is just how recognisably regional it is. Besides the acidity this could be a Barossan red such is the chocolatey style. Think bigger style 128 and you're on the money.
Pleasant and bound to win the hearts and minds of anyone brought up on a diet of Penfolds reds from the 90s, if just a bit raw and raw oaked for big points.
Score: 17/20 90/100
Would I buy it? No, but I know many who would love it (and the fruit is very vibrant). Hence the generous score.
Jefford on Monday: Hill Sages
2 hours ago