Isole e Olena Cepparello 2006 (Tuscany, Italy)
14%, Screwcap, $100
I’m ensconced in all things South Australian wine at the moment, so in many ways it feels a little rude to be writing about a Tuscan Sangiovese. Yet this is definitely worth highlighting, particularly given that I didn’t write any notes and I want to remember the good bits. Great to see the screwcap too.
What is most satisfying about this wine is the tannins. Long, dry, chalky, firm, Italianate tannins. The sort of fine grained, stick-your-cheeks-together tannins that reputations are made with. The nose carries quite a dose of figgy ripe fruit – tending towards glace cherries, red berries, and blood plums, teetering on the edge of overripeness even. But the palate is still so savoury, minerally. dry and composed that you sort of forget that super ripe fruit may even be involved.
The end result is a modern Sangiovese built in an enviably (for most new world Sangio producers) attractive mould. Pure and sexy stuff. 18.4/94