Simple Valpolicella, when done right, can be a delicious wine. An underrated delicious wine, that is such an enjoyable drink because it’s not pretentious. Indeed Valpolicella doesn’t even pretend to be serious, just a good drink. I often think of Valpol as sitting in that same band as good village Beaujolais, or Moscato or basic AC Chablis. All affordable, affable, utterly drinkable wines.

The only challenge for Valpolicella is the encroaching push of Amarone, which is now the major quality focus for many Valpol producers and has pushed the elegant, non-dried fruit wines out of the way.

With this Scaia we see what can be done. 100% Corvina, off young vines and fermented in stainless steel, it has a beauty to it that is genuinely enticing, all lucid cherry spice and a silky smooth palate. It’s almost like a low acid, silky Barbera (but more red than black fruits) and with lovely fine tannins.

Primary, simple and delightful. I’m still trying to hunt down where it is available locally, but if this was a $20ish wine it would be a no-brainer.

Details: 13%, Cork
Tasted: April 2015 (tasting)
Best drinking: 2015-2018
Score: 17/20, 90/100
Would I buy it? Depends on the price. If cheap enough – absolutely.