Coravin Screw Caps
I was sceptical. And full of questions.
This week was the Sydney launch of the new Coravin Screw Caps; a brand accessory to the Coravin ‘wine access’ system to allow for use on screwcaps.
What made the launch a)intriguing b)potentially revelatory is that Coravin is designed for corks, not screwcaps. In fact, some pundits thought that screwcap adoption might be under threat; such is the love for Coravin’s powers.
Firstly, if you’ve not played with a Coravin before, then you’re not alone – it was launched in July 2013 and ‘official’ distribution in Australia has only been locked in for within the last 18 months.
What it lacks in history, however, this device has made up in hype, with the likes of Robert Parker Jr. describing it as ‘a killer device’ that is going to ‘revolutionise drinking wine’.
Lofty words. But this is, in my opinion, a pretty handy gadget.
Coravin as a concept dates back to 1999, invented by former nuclear physicist Greg Lambrecht. Lambrecht, like many, was stuck with the age-old problem of what to with half-opened bottles of wine uncorked when your partner is pregnant. A medical instrument inventor by trade, he then came up with solution – a prototype device that ‘accessed’ bottles using a hollow spinal needle inserted through the cork into the bottle to draw out wine. Then, an inert gas (Lambrecht has experimented with both nitrogen and argon before settling on argon) is pumped into the bottle as wine is removed. The needle is then withdrawn, with the cork naturally flexing back into shape while the gas protects the wine.
While this sounds simple (or not), it took until 2013 for Lambrecht to finally launch the product, and even then it was a bumpy ride, with the device recalled after incidences of exploding bottles.
Still, it has gained serious traction since then, notably amongst restaurants and wine bars. In such settings, the notion that you can pour a glass for a customer without opening a bottle is a game changer. I spoke to Stu Knox, of Sydney wine institution Fix St James, at the launch and he couldn’t be more of a fan. For Knox, it means being able to pour single glasses of Barolo for time-pressed business people who want just a glass, all without the worry that comes from potential wastage of a $400/bottle.
Knox has been one of those to help trial the new Coravin Screw Caps too, and he’s now even more enthused, as the Screw Caps open up the Coravin for usage on uniformly screwcap-sealed Australian/New Zealand wines.
The principal behind the Coravin Screw Caps themselves is not to adapt the device but to adapt the seal. This entails a plastic screwcap with a hollow, silicone rubber centre (see pic above) that is put over the top of the bottle to replace the original cap. A new Coravin cap, in other words. So you just unscrew the bottle, replace it with a Coravin Screw Cap and then you can access the bottle much like it is a cork, with the squishy, highly flexible rubber resealing in a similar fashion.
To demonstrate the effectiveness of these Coravin Screw Caps – and indeed the Coravin itself – Lambrecht had us taste two different screwcap-sealed wines in five glasses. We were given the identity of the wines (a Mesh Riesling and a Tarrawarra Pinot, the Pinot looking best) and told that some of the glasses contained wine from bottles opened on the day, and others from bottles that had been ‘accessed’ six weeks ago and left with an (unspecified) ullage. The game was to pick which was which.
Unsurprisingly, the whole room failed. I managed to identify just one of the four glasses of wine from the previously ‘accessed’ bottles, and it was hard going. There just wasn’t enough of a difference, even on reflection, to say which was which.
A win to Coravin.
Indeed, this is a seriously impressive device. Yes, it’s not cheap ($329 is the lowest price I’ve seen the basic Model 1, with the sexier Model 2 Elite circa $549+), but that ability to have just one glass from a famed bottle is seriously attractive. And now, with the Coravin Screw Caps available (and a rumoured sparkling option in the works) it’s not hard to see the appeal.
Ultimately, I’m not the one who will get the most value out of a Coravin though. Instead, it is wine bars and restaurants like Fix St James that will be able to use the Coravin to its potential. For a wine bar, it suddenly turns the entire wine list into ‘by the glass’, whether the bottle is corked or screwcap sealed. A real life-changer.
The drawbacks of Coravin? Well, besides the cost of the system itself, the gas canisters are pricey – it works out to circa $1.33 for a 150ml glass. The argon comes from Austria, and Lambrecht mentions that it is anything but cheap. Further, well-ullaged bottles can apparently degrade/look ‘flat’ over time, much like they do in other gas-based wine preservation systems (like Enomatic). There have also been issues on aeroplanes with low ullaged bottles leaking, and Lambrecht recommends that you keep all wines on their side and well-ullaged bottles upside down.
Locally, one other issue that the Australian distributor Negociants have encountered is the odd Coravin that isn’t clean. Apparently, this means problems with acetobacter and brett from within the needle. Given that it the whole machine is washable – and the needle purges when you push gas through it – this seems more like lack of care than anything else.
Otherwise, the ultimate question is whether you need one. Surely the joy of a bottle is sharing it with others? Or opening a bottle and drinking it over several nights? That notion obviously ignores the benefits of a Coravin, but it’s still a philosophical consideration.
As for me, I’ve got a trial Coravin on its way and will report back on whether I’m convinced I need one in my life. At this stage I’m keen, but the proof will be whether I then want to go out and buy one when the trial unit goes back. Watch this space….
Coravin Screw Caps are now available in packs of six for circa $50AUD. The caps come in ‘standard’ and ‘large’ to cope with the two main screwcap sizes.
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17 Comments
Andrew, I’m not familiar with this concept of “opening a bottle and drinking it over several nights”. No such thing in our house, once opened any bottle at our place is a dead man walking.
No Coravin in the Colwell house then 🙂
Andrew, do you have any details as to who sells the screw caps?
Not yet. Might be best to contact Negociants Australia directly.
I’ve had a coravin for a few years, but have mostly stopped using it. I seem to have similar issues to Simon above. . . This sounds interesting, but probably as you say it appeals more to the trade where there is a better chance at consistency. I found with the cork model the issue was the leakage around the cork and through the puncture site – so yes very hard to pick within the first few days – but discernible after a few weeks for sure. If only they made a seal like they have for screwcaps that could be used in a cork closed bottle!!
The soft silicone in the screwcap version works much better, that said, I wouldn’t want to use if for too long as it would just get holy too
Was there a mention of how many pin pricks each silicon device can take please?
That’s a really good question that wasn’t fully answered. I’ll be able to tell when I’ve had a go myself.
Thanks Andrew, great product review and writings in general. Using it on cork I’ve had a few disasters. Works well on long quality Bordeaux corks though.
Love the irony that the launch is for screwcap usage, yet the distributor is Negociants. Yalumba being steadfast in the use of cork rather than screwcap for their premium red wines.
Oh yes. Odd isn’t it? I’ll have to ask someone why they keep pushing on with corks. Has to be a decision from Robert.
Hi Andrew,
How are you going with the Coravin?
I got in touch with them to try to get a straight answer about what the practical differences between their different models are. From their answers, my surmise is that the waaaaaaay cheaper white plastic one is functionally the same as the black ones, but they want to avoid saying so to avoid cannibalising their own market. Do you have any information on this? The difference of a few hundred dollars between the two models certainly buys a few poscas and a bedazzler – practically a necessity until Coravin introduce a bespoke rhinestone model for the self-respecting oligarch.
Luca
The more expensive ones look fancier. That’s pretty much it. They might last longer though?
Curious as to whether your thought have changed around the screw caps now that time has past by?
I’ve just picked up the Model 2 Elite and personally it seems like the bottle has faded after 2 weeks (Clonakilla SV ’14) when using the screw cap. However, it has held up through corks.
In all honesty – I just don’t use mine much anymore. I open a bottle of wine and drink it too often to justify anything else.
That said, in this year’s Wine List of the Year awards, it was great to see how prevalent a Coravin section was on the best lists.
I’ve had my Coravin for over a year. It’s over-hyped and you should think carefully before buying it as it’s not cheap when you factor in the initial purchase and the ongoing costs.
Either Robert Parker was high on Argon gas when he hyped it in that video with Lambrecht or something else is going on. In my own experiments I’ve found the wine does change. Less under cork, than with the Coravin replacement screwcaps. Either way, all Coravined wines lose their top, more fragrant and ethereal notes and start changing. Within 3 days, you can taste and smell the difference in the wines. Within a week, they’re totally different wines. Maybe it’s OK for restaurants who might finish a bottle in 2-3 days at most, but I’m not sure it’s worth it for the casual drinker who wants to drink a small glass of fine wine 3-4 nights a week over a couple of weeks. I guess the only thing going for them is they do stop complete oxidation and spoilage. Hope this helps people deciding if they want to buy the system.
For restaurants I like it. It makes sense that you can pour a bottle over a week.
At home? I never use mine. Can’t see the point of it. If a bottle is open, it needs be drunk. I agree with you James.