No, I can’t see the joy in this Dead Arm. Conceptually, it’s easy to appreciate the appeal of a handpicked, basket-pressed, foot trodden, super-premium McLaren Vale Shiraz in this mode. It’s plush, thick grained and very ripe too, a whole ball of inky density.
But the longer I looked, the uglier it seemed. After that early fruit hit the palate starts looking baked, the tannins desiccated, the alcohol warm. It’s a wine pushing hard for power, plushness, impact, yet ultimately delivering a wine that is an attack rather than an enjoyable drink. The score ends up in ‘bronze’ territory because there’s still a real length of flavour. Still, a no from me.
Best drinking: now to at least ten years. 16.5/20, 88/100. 15%, $75. Would I buy it? No.
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